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An Attempt to climb Raven Peak by Chad Gailey, 8/20/2004



Seth and I enjoying some dinner before heading out after a fun filled day of zig zagging through the gapers on Raven glacier. The perfect end to a beautiful day!



Seth Tying in on a sunny morning before heading out on the ridiculously open Raven glacier on a Raven Peak summit attempt. Raven peak is smack dab in the upper center portion of the photo. The Raven Headwall, in the saddle to the right of the peak has a foreboding 'shrund that blocks off any easy ascents in the later summer months. Raven pass is barely visible trending left from the main glacier in the photo at the base of the peak.



This shot shows the two most common approaches to Raven Peak. To the right is the Raven headwall, to the left is Raven pass, which leads to the west fork of the Eagle Glacier.



Seth is enjoying some zig zag routefinding on our descent from an attempt of Raven Peak. This was an interesting and harrowing area as a self arrest to secure a falling partner is not feasible in most circumstances. Securing your partner required a jump into the other side of the spine. Thankfully we stayed on top of the snow!



A pic of me on the middle, dirty section of Raven Glacier. Most of the crevasses in this area have closed up, leaving a tremendous number of shallow seams and humps to negotiate. Raven headwall and the gigormo 'shrund can be seen directly above my head.